If Shangri La exists in the modern world, it must look an awful lot like Bhutan. With a pristine mountain environment, fairy-tale clifftop monasteries and a famous preference for Gross National Product, the last Himalayan kingdom has admirably managed to conserve its unique Buddhist identity. Yet change is slowly afoot. Hand over the substantial wad of dollars it takes to travel here and you’ll see noblemen in 15th-century traditional robes chatting on their mobile phones and saffron-robed monks paying their respects to bloodthirsty demons while discussing the recent elections. It’s all part of the charm of a country that offers travelers an alternative vision of what ‘development’ truly means.